The pedalbox is fabricated to accept standard Fiesta Zetec SE pedals and clutch master cylinder. There are 2 versions of the clutch master cylinder. The early version will bolt directly to the pedal box side, the later will require an angle bracket to be fabricated.

The steel brake pedal is modified on exchange by Sylva. The plastic moulding of the clutch master cylinder needs to be trimmed down to fit the Riot pedalbox, be careful not to cut off something vital in doing so. It will also need its own reservoir, a motorcycle breakers will yield just what is needed at modest charge.

The brake master cylinder bolts to the face of the box with two M8 bolts and when in place should just clear the rocker arm with the suspension on full droop. If it does not it may be necessary to slot the holes slightly to move it up. Temporarily offer in place the spindle and pedals, this will enable you to position the clutch master cylinders horizontal plane and bolt in place with M6 bolts. Also the correct spacing can be determined and the tube spacer can be cut down. One of the spacers doubles as a spring so keep a little tension so that it does not rattle.

Both the pedals need a return spring. After fitting the clutch pedal, extend its pushrod fully. This will establish the for and aft position of the other pedals. Tighten the brake master cylinder clevis to match. The spindle is retained with two spring clips one on the outside of the box the other on the inside forcing the pedals together. Position the accelerator pedal in the aperture to correspond with the other pedals and drill to suit.

Fabricate a bracket to support the throttle cable from alloy angle making sure that it will not contact the GRP nose cone. The cable is fed through the tunnel ensuring that it cannot drop onto the hot water pipes or tangle with the gear mechanism, do not anchor it down too securely or it will be very difficult to retrieve should it ever needs to be replaced. The clutch slave to master cylinder pipe is a dedicated Ford part. It should be cut close to the master cylinder and extended using 2 x 6mm compression joints and 6 mm(1/4”).dia. pipe. This should be run down the tunnel to the engine bay.

The brake lines need two three way unions, one positioned centrally on the front cross frame and one at the rear end of the tunnel. From the brake master cylinder run a brake pipe to each of these securing at regular intervals making sure that no moving parts can make a connection. From these run lines to the lugs on the chassis provided for the braided hoses which in turn bolt to the calipers. Refer to the photographs for a guide to the positioning of the pipes.

The braided hoses need first to be bolted into the calipers using copper washers, trial fit finger tight first to make sure they seat correctly and if not cut the ends down so that the washer is pinched when tightened. The other end can then be bolted to the lugs. Before attempting to bleed the system make sure that all the connections are tight and loosen the rear calipers, removing the lower bolt, so that they can be rotated enough to put the nipple uppermost. This is important in order to get all of the air out of the system. Do not put off the bleeding operation till later, the handbrake cables cannot be fitted until this task is complete.